Malaysia National Parks, Sarawak, Loagan Bunut 罗干布奴国家公园, 砂拉越州属, 马来西亚

Malaysia National Parks, Sarawak, Loagan Bunut 

罗干布奴国家公园, 砂拉越州属, 马来西亚

Loagan Bunut features a unique ecosystem based on Sarawak’s largest natural lake (65 ha). The shallow lake usually drains completely when the water in the nearby Tinjar river is low (normally February and late May or early June/July). As the water level subsides, huge flocks of wading birds gorge themselves on fish and other aquatic creatures trapped in the mud. When the lake is dry, plants sprout from the mud and are eaten by insect larvae. When the rains come and the lake fills up, returning fish feed on the larvae, breed in the lake, and the whole cycle starts again.

Fishermen from the local Berawan tribe have developed a unique method only found at Loagan Bunut, known as Selambau. They use huge scoop nets mounted on large rafts to catch migrating fish, which are kept alive in submerged bamboo cages until they can be transported to market.

The surrounding terrain features a variety of forest types, ranging from mixed peatswamp forest with huge stilt-rooted trees at the water’s edge, to towering Alam forest with a canopy height of over 60 m, and helps to make Loagan Bunut a birdwatcher’s paradise. Permanent residents include eagles, swallows, malkohas, stork-billed kingfishers, magpies, robins, doves, bulbuls, racket-tailed drongos, pied hornbills and kites, while darters, egrets, herons, bitterns, storks and broadbill arrive during dry spells to feed on the trapped fish. Other animals found in the park include barking deer, bearded pigs, sambar deer, long-tail macaques, black banded langurs, lesser mouse deer, small-tooth palm civets, giant squirrels, provost squirrels, Bornean gibbons, many species of frogs and small lizards, dog-headed water snakes and a variety of tree snakes. Estuarine crocodiles are occasionally sighted.

During dry spells it is possible to stroll across the dried-up lake bed, but visitors must be accompanied by a local guide for safety reasons. More permanent trails include the Hydrology Trail (2km) which provides a close-up view of the peatswamp ecosystem. The 260m Tapang Trail showcases the towering tapang tree (Koompassia excelsia), the world’s third tallest tree, whose heavy, dense wood is claimed to be the best for making blowpipes.

The Belian Trail (720m) features the belian tree (Eusideroxylon zwageri, also known as Borneo ironwood) which produces one of the world’s hardest, and most valuable timbers.

Boat trips can be arranged at the Park Headquarters. Early morning is the best time to appreciate the mist-shrouded scenery, midday is best for viewing wading birds feeding on trapped fish, and late afternoon offers superb sunsets and more bird watching possibilities. The boatmen usually drive the narrow boats right into the forest, amongst huge stilted tree roots where monkeys and squirrels can often be seen.

A boat trip will usually include a visit to the fascinating Selambau scoop nets, and during fish migrations visitors can watch the fishermen at work and buy freshly caught fish. The boatmen will also point out an ancient Berawan burial platform, or Klirieng, supported above the lake by sturdy belian pillars. The boats are operated by local Berawan fishermen who have a great deal of local knowledge and usually speak acceptable English. The charter rate is RM 60.00 per boat per hour for up to 4 passengers, with an additional RM 15.00 per hour for every extra passenger.

 

Getting There

Loagan Bunut is approximately 120 km and 3 hours drive from Miri. Travel agents in Miri operate tours to the park.

罗干布奴国家公园（Loagan Bunut National Park）有一座砂拉越最大的内陆自然湖（面积65公顷），其中上演着独特的生态系统交替。当临近的丁家河水位低时，通常都在二月及五月尾或六/七月头，这浅水的湖泊通常都会流出。随着水位逐渐消退，成群的涉禽类就会吞食湖中的鱼，其他的水生生物也会困在尼泽中。

当湖泊干燥时，植物开始冒芽，昆虫的幼虫以这些植物作为食物。当雨量回来将湖泊填满时，归来的鱼群又以这些幼虫为食物，并开始在湖内繁殖。整个生态周期又开始交替。

当地巴拉湾部落的渔民发明了一种独特的捕鱼方法，这方法非常适合在罗干布奴使用，称为设篮包（selambau）。他们用巨大的戽斗钉在木筏上以捕捉正迁移的鱼群，并将它们收在竹笼里放在水下，直到他们拿到市场上去卖。

周围的地形特点有各种不同类型的森林，如泥炭沼泽森林、水边巨大的多根支撑型树木、高耸的阿拉姆森林（有些高达60公尺），这些森林让罗干布奴成为观鸟的天堂。这里的永居生物包括老鹰、燕子、malkoha鸟、鹳嘴翠鸟、喜鹊、栗背林鸲、斑鸠、白头翁、网状尾燕雀、杂色犀鸟和鸢，而在干旱季节，鹈、白鹭、苍鹭、鸕鶿、鹳和阔嘴鸭则会到来捕食受困的鱼群。

其它的动物还包括赤麂、大胡子猪、水鹿，长尾猕猴、黑色带状叶猴、小鼷鹿、小齿灵猫、巨松鼠、丽松鼠、婆罗洲长臂猿，许多种青蛙和小蜥蜴，狗首水蛇和多种树蛇。偶尔也会看见河口鳄。

在干旱季节，还可以步行穿越干枯的湖床，但是游客必须有当地导游带领以确保安全。比较永久的路径包括2公里的水道（Hydrology Trail），让你近距离看见泥炭沼泽生态系统。在260公尺的达邦路径（Tapang Trail）可见高耸的达邦树（Koompassia excelsia）。它是世界第三高的树种，其重且密的木质最好用作制造吹管。在720公尺的贝连路径（Belian Trail）则可看见贝连树（Eusideroxylon zwageri），它被称为婆罗洲的铁木，作为生产世界最硬最有价值的木材。

来回船程可在国家公园的总部安排，清晨是观赏云雾萦绕景色的最佳时机，中午则是观赏涉禽鸟类捕食鱼群的最好时间，下午则是观赏日落和观鸟的最佳时机。

一般上，船员会驶进特别的树林，这些树由根支撑，游客可以看见猴子和松鼠。一般的船程包括观赏“设篮包” 舀网的过程；在鱼群迁移时，游客也可以看见渔夫如何捕鱼，而且还可以现场购买新鲜的鱼只。船民也会向游客指出古早的巴拉湾埋葬平台（Klirieng），由坚固的贝连木支撑在湖中。

船运由当地的巴拉湾渔民经营，他们拥有大量的当地知识，对这里的环境非常熟悉，而且能够说简单的英语。每艘船每小时的租界费用为RM60，可载4名乘客；每名额外的乘客每小时的租借费用为RM15。

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